Your Macerating Toilet Analysts Show You How to Maximize Your Dollars When Choosing a ToiletÂ
Raritan Engineering Company your macerating toilet experts would like to share with you these topics we thought would be of interest to you this month regarding how to find the best toilet for you.Â
Just about every sailor has a head story, which is usually humorous and quite likely fairly gross. These stories typically include massive clogs, holding-tank issues, or pump malfunctions that occur at just the wrong time (really, is there a right time?), followed by a debate over marine and environmental issues and the merits of replacing the whole system with just a bucket.
Unlike household toilets, which are all pretty much the same, marine toilets come in different shapes and sizes and have different flush mechanisms and tank options, so you can design a system that works for your boat, budget, and cruising plans.
The Tried and TrueÂ
Keeping it simple certainly has its merits, and manual heads have done the job for years. From the venerable (but now hard to find) Wilcox-Crittenden Skipper head to the widely available, cruising sailors have relied on these due to ease of use, simple system designs, readily available rebuild kits, and, in the case of the  low replacement cost.Â
A common head upgrade is to go electric, which can sometimes be as simple as installing an electric pump in an already compatible system. An electric head eliminates the need to manually pump, pump, pump to clear the bowl. Electric heads also typically include a macerator as well, which is similar to a garbage disposal and grinds up waste and paper before discharge into the holding tank (or overboard, if you're offshore).Â
Electricity consumption, which is almost always a concern on cruising boats, is something to think about when switching to an electric head. Corbishley says that the draw on the electrical system is minimal on a typical modern cruising boat.
An electric macerating toilet that Corbishley recommends to his customers who are looking to upgrade the head on their sailboats is Saniflo's SaniMarin (from $600). He notes that the parts are all located under the china bowl and that by undoing three screws, you can pivot the unit and gain access to those inner workings.
Vacuum Heads
Your macerating toilet analysts know that vacuum systems have been used on larger poweryachts for many years. They work well; however, since the systems are usually large and use fresh water to flush, many sailors have stayed away from them. A new product from Dometic Marine may change that.
The SailVac holding-tank system, when paired with one of its VacuFlush toilets , is specifically designed for the small spaces typically found on most sailboats. The SailVac combines a vacuum pump, vacuum reservoir, and holding tank into one unit.Â
However, Cole finds that the Lavac uses more water for a full flush than does a manual head, and the normal installation requires a user to wait about 30 seconds before being able to open the lid, which can be a problem if there's an ill person on board.Â
Composting HeadsÂ
A relative newcomer to the marine-toilet marketplace, composting heads are starting to make their way onto more boats. Such composting heads as the Air Head ) or Nature's Head  offer a major benefit over other systems in that they require no through-hulls. Both toilets work in the same way: Moist, crumbled peat moss is put in the composting chamber at the bottom portion of the toilet.
Although sailors switching over to a composting head will definitely have to deal with a learning curve-not to mention the job of removing all parts of the previous system-the composting head, when set up and maintained properly, should be free of odor, and you'll never have to worry about clogged hoses or finding pumpout stations again.
Installing a new marine head is within the skill set of most do-it-yourselfers, but if you're completely redesigning your system or, say, upgrading from a manual head to a vacuum system, you may want to consult with someone who has experience with marine plumbing.
So don't forget these helpful tips when choosing the next marine toilet for you. 1) Marine toilets come in different shapes and sizes; Â 2) keeping it simple is never a wrong thing; Â and 3) remember that installing a marine head can mostly be done by do-it-yourselfers.
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Your Marine Engine Parts Experts Say You Can Avoid Bad Boating Days
Stainless Marine your marine engine parts professionals would like to share with you these topics we thought would be of interest to you this month regarding how to keep your boat from breaking down.
You've seen the bumper sticker: Your marine engine parts analysts do not agree that a bad day of boating is better than a good day at work. Cute, but would you really feel that way if you were adrift 10 miles from the ramp, with a boatload of tired, cranky passengers and an engine that won't start?
Sometimes, your only option might be to ask for help â either from a professional towing company or a fellow boater. But in most instances a well-prepared skipper can make the necessary repairs to get the boat back to port without assistance.Â
#1: It's Sputtering and Losing Power
Your boat feels like it's running out of strength (and you've ruled out the No. 1 breakdown reason â running out of fuel). You most likely have a filter problem or fouled plugs.
Solution: Replace the in-line fuel filter â you did bring a spare, didn't you? If not, you can at least remove and clear the filter element of any debris, and drain any accumulated water.
Prevention: It's possible to buy a bad load of fuel, but it's more likely that the fuel went bad while in your boat. Leaving a tank near empty for long periods of time can cause condensation and water in the gas.Â
Older tanks might have debris at the bottom, which can get stirred up as the fuel level drops. The best solution might be increased filtration. Consider adding a larger aftermarket fuel filter. And don't forget the spare elements.
If it isn't the gas, it might be the spark plugs. This is a more common problem on older outboards, but might be worth a quick check on any engine. Carry spares, along with the tools to change them.
Carry Onboard: Spare filter or filter element and a filter wrench.
2: The Belt Broke
You probably won't hear the sound of a drive belt breaking over the general engine noise, but you will know something's wrong when your overheat warning light comes on, or your voltage meter shows that the alternator isn't charging.Â
Solution: There's a lot of info out there on jury-rigging a temporary belt by using fishing line or pantyhose or some such. This might work, but wouldn't it be easier to just carry a spare, along with the wrenches needed to change it?
Prevention: Inspect, tighten and dress the belt. You also might want to check the condition of the pulleys' contact surfaces. Your marine engine parts specialists know that sometimes, corrosion can cause rough spots on the pulleys that will eat a brand-new belt in short order.
Go to http://www.stainlessmarine.com/ and see how you can find more information on marine engine parts and on how to keep your boat from breaking down at Stainless Marine.
Carry Onboard: Marine tool kit, which includes everything needed for this and other basic repairs.
3: The Engine Is Overheating
The needle on the temperature gauge is rising. This almost always means you have a lack of water flow in the cooling loop. Outboards, most small inboards and I/Os don't have radiators like your car, and instead use the water they are floating on to cool the engine.
Solution: Trace the source. In a vast majority of cases, the problem is an obstruction in the raw water intake â like weeds, mud or a plastic bag. Locate the intake and clean it out.
Prevention: Regularly service and replace the impeller. Also look at the condition of its housing. Scarring or pitting of the metal housing can cause even a good impeller to lose pumping power.
Make sure you or your mechanic checks for corrosion or blockage in the exhaust system. Every so often, have the exhaust risers and associated components opened up for inspection.Â
Carry Onboard: Soft wire or rod to snake intake clogs.
#4: It Won't Start
Anyone who has ever turned an ignition key knows the frustration of hearing nothing. Again, this is most likely an electrical issue â a low or dead battery, or a break somewhere in the ignition circuit.
Solution: Check the kill switch. Make sure the shifter is in neutral. Then pay special attention to the starter switch itself. Sometimes, a dash-mounted ignition switch will simply become loose in its fitting, allowing the entire switch mechanism to turn with the key.Â
Prevention: We'll say it again â inspect, clean and, if necessary, replace your wiring periodically. If your crew habitually drains the battery by cranking the tunes while at anchor, consider installing a secondary battery bank or one of those metering devices that monitors supply and saves enough reserve to ensure a restart.
Carry Onboard: Screwdrivers with insulated handles; wrench set or crescent wrench; Allen wrenches.
5: It Just Went Dead
If you're lucky, someone simply bumped the kill switch. Or you could be out of fuel. If neither of these checks out, this usually represents some type of electrical failure.Â
Solution: Start with the simple scenarios. On any boat equipped with a kill-switch and lanyard, make sure the lanyard key hasn't come loose. Sometimes, it might seem to be engaged, but has actually slipped just enough to activate the switch.
Ignition switches can also fail or suffer loose connections, and though this will mostly likely show up at start-up, it's worth fiddling with the switch a bit (and checking its attendant breaker or fuse) before moving on to the engine side of things.
If it turns out to be something more complex â such as an ignition chip on an EFI engine â you might have to pull out the cell phone or put out a call on channel 16.
Prevention: Learn the various components of the ignition system, and periodically inspect, clean and coat each exposed connection with an anti-corrosion product.
Carry Onboard: Wire brush to clean terminals and Corrosion X spray.
The No. 1 Shutdown
Aside from our Top-10 list, ask yourself: What's the No. 1 reason people call for towing assistance? Answer: They run out of gas. And while we know you're way too smart to do that, you might want to make sure your boat's fuel gauge is accurate â or plan accordingly, if it's not. In addition, knowing a bit about your boat's fuel burn and operating range could save you from guessing, and then making that embarrassing call for help.
So don't forget these helpful reminders on how to prevent your boat from breaking down. 1)Â Leaving a tank near empty for long periods of time can cause condensation and water in the gas; Â 2)Â corrosion can cause rough spots on the pulleys that will eat a brand-new belt in short order; Â and 3)Â replace your wiring periodically.
Click here and see how Stainless Marine has more information on marine engine parts and on how to keep your boat from breaking down.
Your Marine Engine Parts Experts Help You Become a Master Problem SolverÂ
Stainless Marine your marine engine parts analysts would like to share with you these topics we thought would be of interest to you this month regarding how to properly trim your outdrive.
Your marine engine parts professionals know that when we get mail on boat-handling problems, the bulk of it sounds like this: âWhen I do this, my boat does that and I can't make it stop.â Here are some solutions you might find beneficial.
Problem: My boat pounds into the waves, often taking water over the bow.
Cause:Â Your inboard marine engine parts specialists suggest that you could just be going too fast in rough water, or the propeller might be trimmed too low, driving the stern up and the bow down.
Solution: It's possible your hull has developed a âhookâ or a concave bottom that causes the bow to ride low, but more than likely, your trim is out of adjustment. Start by pulling your trim tabs up fully (if you have tabs).
Problem: My boat leans to the left at planing speed but is level at rest.
Cause: Prop torque (the twisting force that the prop creates as it turns in the water) can cause your boat to lean.
Solution:Â Your performance marine engine parts professionals know that adjusting your trim upward will often correct this issue. In the short term, adjusting your crew to counterbalance the force can be helpful.Â
Problem: I trimmed my engine, but the boat still pounds the waves too much.
Cause: V-bottom boats usually have a very sharp stem – the point of the bow – to slice the waves. The bow might still be riding too high to cut the chop.
Solution: If you have adjusted your prop trim, chances are that your trim tabs (if you have them) are not properly adjusted. Or, you simply might be going too fast for the water conditions.
Most boats handle best when running parallel with their at-rest waterline. Accordingly, outboards and sterndrives feature a power trim adjustment that allows you to change the engine's angle of thrust by tilting it âoutâ or âinâ in relation to the transom in order to maintain the proper running angle.
Your Marine Engine Parts Specialists Discuss the Importance of Being Able to Adjust On the Fly
Your marine boat parts experts understand that adjust-on-the-fly capability is important because optimum trim position is determined by load and water conditions, and will change as passengers move or seas vary.
Here are the steps to properly trim a planing-hulled powerboat:
With the engine in neutral, use the trim switch to tilt the drive down as far as it will go. Monitor the engine trim gauge (if present) or note the change in sound from the tilt motor that signals that the engine is trimmed fully down.
Your performance marine experts know you need to put the engine into forward gear and throttle up steadily to cruising speed, noting the reading on your speedometer, GPS, or tachometer.
Using the trim switch, slowly tilt the engine up. You should feel the boat's attitude toward the water change, with a slight rise of the bow, a lift of the entire boat, and an increase in speed.
Continue to tilt the engine up until you note a slight drop in speed from the GPS or speedometer, a sharp rise in the engine's rpm, or until you hear your propeller begin to cavitate.Â
Tilt the engine down in small increments until the maximum speed/consistent rpm is again reached, and/or no cavitation is noted.Â
From there, you may want to make adjustments to the trim to offer a more comfortable ride. For example, trimming the bow down a bit in a chop may decrease pounding from waves – but may also increase the amount of spray.
So don't forget these helpful pointers in making sure you properly trim your outdrive. 1)Â With the engine in neutral, use the trim switch to tilt the drive down as far as it will go; Â 2)Â Monitor the engine trim gauge or note the change in sound from the tilt motor that signals that the engine is trimmed fully down; Â and 3) put the engine into forward gear and throttle up steadily to cruising speed, noting the reading on your speedometer, GPS, or tachometer.
Stainless Marine has more information on marine engine parts, marine boat parts, group #24 battery box and on trimming an outdrive properly.
Your Macerating Toilet Experts Discuss the Pros and Cons of Switching to Solar Power
Raritan Engineering Company your macerating toilet analysts would like to share with you these topics we thought would be of interest to you this month regarding the decision to take your boat solar.
Nine years ago, I took up residence aboard my Ensenada 20 while preparing to move onto Nikki, a Cape Dory 28. During my stay aboard the ÂEnsenada, your macerating toilet specialists know that he outfitted her with two 85-watt solar panels so I wouldn't be dependent on dockage and shore power.Â
Part of Nikki's refurbishment included the replacement of everything electrical, including the panel, all wiring, and every socket and light fixture. I installed a new VHF radio and stereo, and bought LED bulbs for the interior lighting, anchor light, running lights, spotlight and flashlights.
At the end of the year, I moved aboard Nikki and transferred the two 85-watt panels to my new home.
Convenience vs. Power
Your macerator pumps professionals know that when most sailors approach me to converse and brain-pick on the topic of solar power, the discussion almost always turns first to convenience, then to cost, and lastly to efficiency.Â
Panels that can be turned and elevated to aim directly at the sun at any time of day result in markedly greater power output, so they can be smaller and less expensive.Â
Panels that are fixed to only one side of the boat will probably produce solar power during a small fraction of daylight time, whereas panels that can be moved, trained and elevated have a much higher rate of success.
I have seen several boats recently that have panels that raise and lower on a horizontal tube attached to a pair of lifeline stanchions. Your macerator toilet experts know that the panel altitude can be adjusted from vertically stowed to just above horizontal, but the panels are very shadow-prone.
Adjust for Efficiency
A high priority before moving aboard Nikki was the design and fabrication of panel standards, or brackets, that would allow me to maximize the solar arrays' efficiency.Â
Upon moving aboard Nikki, the standards, panels, controllers and all wiring were installed. The entire solar setup has now lasted and served me perfectly for more than seven years.Â
The second least efficient solar mounting allows adjustment only along a horizontal axis, and does not allow for training around the vertical axis.
Being able to both train and elevate panels allows adjustments for the sun's altitude (time of day) as well as its azimuth (bearing) relative to the boat's heading, thus getting the most bank for the buck.
Avoiding Shadows
Another factor to keep in mind is that any shadow, however minor, reduces the wattage output of the panel. So the ability to move panels to the largest shadow-free area available increases the opportunity to capture solar energy.
This often prevents one panel's shadow from covering part of another panel. My panels are usually mounted with the horizontal elevation tube locked off-center in the T fitting.Â
Your Macerating Toilet Professionals Recommend Regular Maintenance to Keep Those Solar Panels Looking New
You can find more information as well as get assistance from our marine parts depot and on the decision to switch your boat to solar power at Raritan Engineering.
Your marine parts depot experts know that bird droppings allowed to remain on a panel also reduce wattage, so clean your panels as often as necessary. I use water and inexpensive microfiber towels purchased in packages of 25 from my local auto-parts store.
Wiring Nitty-Gritty
I have tried various commercial through-deck wiring glands with little to no success. I finally made my own installations using 3-inch lengths of copper tubing and lots of 3M 5200. I have never had a single drop of water enter my boat through these fittings.
The hole in the deck is drilled with only enough tolerance to insert the tube; a 45-degree chamfer is fashioned around the upper hole edge. Your macerating toilet systems specialists know that the inside of the hole is lined with the 5200, and the tube is inserted. Then the chamfer is overfilled with sealant and sculpted into a round fillet about ¼ inch above the deck.Â
I have never had much success with sealing anything with tape. Besides, it never looks good.
There will be occasions when you want to remove the panels for deck maintenance, or panel replacement or service. Most panels are manufactured with waterproof male and female plugs that connect with sockets called MC4 connectors.
Your wiring must be sweat-soldered to both your receiving plugs and sockets, which requires using a butane torch and rosin-core solder. Before soldering, make sure the hex-head screw-on wire locks are placed onto the wires first.Â
Under Sail
I usually set up my panels so they don't interfere with the sails (and vice versa) when under sail for long distances. This usually requires using panel ties to keep them safe as well as efficiently aimed. If the sun is on the leeward side of the sails, solar becomes pretty useless.
In rough weather at sea or when just daysailing, I unmount the panels from the standards and secure them on their long edges to the upper lifelines and the lifeline stanchions.
Less Is More
To be successful with solar, you must also address your electrical usage by Âreducing the wattage of as many appliances as possible. There are now LED bulbs to replace every incandescent bulb you have for a power savings of about 60 percent.Â
I admit that I am addicted to television as well as movies on DVD, and Ârecently I installed a 20-inch HD 12-volt flat-screen TV for $96. It has a sleep timer that I can set so when I slip into deep slumber watching the tube, it will turn itself off.Â
I rebuilt Nikki's icebox so it is extremely efficient. But I also have installed a 12-volt fridge/freezer unit. Since my yacht club supplies me with free ice, I have very little problem with fresh-food storage as long as I am close to shore.
So don't forget these helpful pointers when making the decision to switch your boat to solar power. 1) Ask yourself is the convenience worth the sacrifice in power?; Â 2) can you adjust for the efficiency?; Â and 3) be sure to address your electrical usage.
Raritan Engineering has more information on macerating toilet, marine parts depot, marine products, and on whether to switch your boat to solar power.
Your Marine Parts Depot Experts Talk About How Electronics Can Sometimes Complicate Things
Raritan Engineering Company your marine parts depot specialists would like to share with you these topics we thought would be of interest to you this month regarding taking a break from electronics from time to time.
At the Melges 24 European Season Opener in Proto Roz, I invited multiple World Champion and Italian legend Flavio Favini to sail with me.
Favini and I talked about the merits, problems, and availability of having electronics on a smaller boat. Your marine parts depot experts know that due to the drop in complexity and price over the last decade, we've seen an influx of electronic instruments on smaller (less than 32 feet) racing sailboats.
In order for them to serve you well, they must work perfectly.
The amount of time I've spent messing around with badly functioning electronics outweighs the moments when they've truly been an asset during racing.
If you are going to have electronics on board, put a team member in charge of ensuring that they function properly, are periodically calibrated, and are using fresh batteries!
Sailors start chasing target speeds.
Target speeds. These two words make me cringe when I hear them.
Your marine parts depot dynamos know that target speeds have made their way down to smaller boats, but they provide trimmers, helmsman, and all of the team with a wrong sense of security (if you are easily hitting them) or insecurity (if you aren't getting to a given target speed).
Go to http://raritaneng.com/category-pages/replacement-parts/ and see how you can find more information as well as get assistance on marine parts depot and on how to take a break from electronics from time to time at Raritan Engineering.
Personally, I barely glimpse at them. My target speeds for a given day all originate from the tuning I do before racing starts, which makes it really important to get on the race course early!
Electronics can dull your instincts.
Top sailors don't rely on electronics in order to make a boat go fast. Instead they focus on the signals the boat is giving them:
How does the tiller feel?
How quickly is the boat heeling?
How is the boat pitching?
They have a finely-tuned inner 6-axis gyroscope telling them how the boat is moving through the water. They also rely on feedback from the crew. Electronics dull your instincts because sailors start depending on them more than on their inner 6-axis gyroscope.
Electronics can slow you down!
The problem with electronics is that they are always late. Every bit of information you get is delayed, and your reaction to it is even later.
So don't forget these helpful pointers on how to take a break from electronics from time to time. 1)Â If you are going to have electronics on board, put a team member in charge of ensuring that they function properly, are periodically calibrated, and are using fresh batteries; Â 2) try very hard to avoid the tendancy of chasing target speeds; Â and 3) remember that electronics can dull your instincts.
Learn more at Raritan Engineering and see how they have more information on marine parts depot and on how to take a break from electronics from time to time.
Your Marine Sanitation Device Experts Recommends Considering a Switch to Ethanol Gas
Raritan Engineering Company your marine sanitation device specialists would like to share with you these topics we thought would be of interest to you this month regarding whether or not to switch to ethanol gas.
It's time we get to the bottom of how E10 is affecting our engines.
Your marine sanitation device analysts know that in the few years since ethanol began to be widely used in the United States, a lot has been written about its properties, the problems it's created, and how to best cope with its possible effects. Some of the advice has been based on science, some on hearsay.
Myth #1: Ethanol-enhanced gasoline (E10) loses octane much faster than regular gasoline.
Many mechanics believe that octane loss during winter storage could be great enough to damage an engine when it's run in the spring. These same mechanics will often recommend leaving the tank almost empty so that fresh gasoline can be added in the spring to raise depleted octane levels.
The recommendation to leave a tank mostly empty is bad advice; it could significantly increase the amount of water that gets into the tank. When enough water enters through the vent, the ethanol will separate (“phase separate”) from the gasoline. Leaving a tank mostly empty does three things to increase the chances of phase separation:
Your marine sanitation device dynamos know that it increases the volume of open space in the tank (its “lung capacity”) so it can “breathe in” damaging moist air. An almost-empty tank leaves more space on tank walls for condensation to form.
If phase separation occurs, the highly corrosive ethanol/water mixture will settle to the bottom of the tank and remain there even after fresh fuel is added in the spring. The only way to remedy the problem would then be to drain the tank and add fresh gasoline.
Myth #2: E10 attracts water, so it's important to install a water separator to prevent the water reaching the engine.
Mercury Marine, which recently hosted a Webinar on ethanol myths, noted that ethanol does not “grab water molecules out of the air.” It is hydrophilic, which means ethanol holds water. With regular gasoline (E0) as well at E10, the primary cause of water collecting in tanks is condensation on tank walls. Note, however, that a fuel filter (10-micron) is essential to keep gunk from reaching your engine.
Myth #3: Certain additives can prevent phase separation?
Both Gibbs and Simnick said that the additives that eliminate water may work incrementally to protect against phase separation, but Joe Simnick stressed that no additives will stand up to a good slug of water. Lew Gibbs added that the best way to prevent phase separation in E10 is to “keep it dry, keep it dry, keep it dry.”
E10 is certainly not as trouble-free as E0, especially the first few tankfulls. But for newer engines, those built after about 1991, there's no reason the initial problems can't be overcome.
So don't forget these helpful pointers when deciding whether or not to switch to ethanol gas. 1) Ethanol-enhanced gasoline does not lose octane much faster than regular gasoline; 2) ethanol does not attract water; and 3) the best way to prevent phase separation in E10 is to keep it dry.
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No doubt you've seen rich snippets appearing on Google's search engine result pages (SERPs), including review stars, product pricing information, inventory status, events and other attributes to call attention to a company's products or services and stand out on the crowded SERPs.
Google generates these rich snippets with a type of information encoding known as structured data and Web professionals would be wise to know what it is, how it works and how to implement it today.
WHAT'S STRUCTURED DATA AND HOW DOES IT WORK?
Structured data is a type of Meta data held by your website's pages describing what is on that page – such as product information, pricing, review count, ratings and so on. To create structured data on your Web pages, you'll need to take advantage of Schema, a structured data markup language that helps search engines understand exactly what your page is about. As a reward for your efforts, search engines like Google will give your search listings extra attention and detail through the inclusion of review stars, additional pricing text and more.
USING JSON-LD TO CREATE SCHEMA MARKUP
There are a few different ways of encoding Schema data on your Web pages, but the accepted standard in the SEO word is the use of JSON-LD. JSON-LD stands for JavaScript Object Notation for Linked Data. In other words, it's a type of markup language like HTML that Web crawlers like Googlebot can consume and parse.
That probably looks a little confusing if you've never seen it before. But, you can probably get the general gist of it. This code identifies specific information about the page; in this case, the information being defined is a Person profile and data such as address, job title, name and website URL. You might expect to see this kind of JSON-LD on a college graduate researcher profile page.
A MORE CONCRETE EXAMPLE: JSON-LD FOR PRODUCT PAGES
Let's take a look at something more concrete and real-world. On a typical e-commerce site, you would expect to see two primary types of pages: PLPs – product listing pages – and PDPs – product description pages. At present, there are no defined standards for PLPs, so we're going to look at a JSON-LD example for a PDP of a product called “OrangeBook Pro” (original, I know):
Let's break this Schema JSON-LD example down line by line so that you can better understand what is going on here. First, we define the @type attribute as Product, meaning that we are describing a product page. Next, we add an AggregateRating property with a ratingValue of 4.5 and reviewCount of 11. This data comes from your Web application's database or from the content management system. It's a summary of the actual reviews on this product's page. Then, we define the description, name, availability, price and currency.
With all of these variables defined, here is a screenshot of what you would expect to see on Google:
As you can see, our JSON-LD implementation has resulted in the creation of a rich snippet for this product page. When people search, they are often drawn to listings with rich snippets, increasing your click through rate and sending more qualified traffic to your website.
HOW YOU CAN PERSUADE GOOGLE TO SHOW RICH SNIPPETS FOR YOUR SEARCH LISTINGS
To convince Google and other search engines that your website is worthy of having rich snippets appended to its search listings, you're going to need to accomplish the following two tasks:
1. First, you need to ensure that you actually get the JSON-LD snippets onto the page. If those aren't there, Google won't be able to generate rich snippets for your listings.
2. Your site will need sufficient authority in the eyes of Google and other search engines in order to be afforded these rich snippets. An experienced SEO consultant will help you to build this authority through stellar content, high-authority link development and page load speed optimizations.
If you're able to accomplish these two goals, then the probability for your search engine listings to be endowed with rich snippets skyrockets dramatically. Missing either of these two attributes will not allow those rich snippets to appear.
TESTING YOUR JSON-LD SCHEMA MARKUP FOR SYNTAX ERRORS
Another issue you can run into when taking advantage of Schema JSON-LD has to do with syntax. A syntax error is just a fancy way of saying that the markup isn't written properly. Fortunately, Google provides a Structured Data Testing Tool (to see what it's all about, click here). With this tool, you can test your JSON-LD markup to make sure that Google can successfully read and parse it. If this program gives you the green light, then you know that your Schema markup is in good shape and will help to generate those coveted rich snippets on the search engine results pages.
THE BENEFITS OF RICH SNIPPETS IN SEO
By using JSON-LD Schema markup, you'll gain rich snippets. These rich snippets, in turn, can drive higher click-through rates (CTRs). In other words, JSON-LD can help you capture more search engine traffic without necessarily increasing the volume of average monthly searches. You'll be making your SEO program more efficient, thereby leading to the possibility for increased revenue, average order value, and more. Without a doubt, JSON-LD and Schema markup is a powerful tool in your SEO arsenal, and an experienced consultant can help you to wield these tools for maximum effect.
NEXT STEPS
Now that you have a solid grounding in JSON-LD and how it can turbocharge your SEO efforts, it's time to take action. If you are not comfortable tackling JSON-LD on your own, we recommend reaching out to a knowledgeable SEO firm for help with proper implementation.
